Give savory yogurts a chance

My first foray into the world of spiced yogurts took place inside the local biryani joint just a few miles north of my Maryland hometown. Alongside heaping plates of spiced rice — filled with generous chunks of tender mutton and buttery marrow and slivers of fried golden onions — were bowls of a humble condiment. It’s unassuming at first due to its sheer simplicity. But after indulging in a few spoonfuls, my palate begged to differ, craving more in between bites of curried rice and meat.

I’m talking about raita, a South Asian staple that’s part sauce, side dish, dip and marinade. It features a plain yogurt (also known as dahi) base that’s mixed with a medley of spices, herbs and raw, chopped vegetables. Although the concept of flavored yogurts has existed for millennia across the diaspora, raita is believed to have first appeared in print around the 19th century. Its name is a portmanteau of two Sanskrit words: rajika (meaning black mustard seeds) and tiktaka (meaning sharp or pungent). Historical archives suggest that the earliest iteration of raita can be traced back to Ayurveda, a 5000-year-old holistic medical system with roots in the Indian subcontinent, as yogurt was revered for supporting digestion and immunity, while spices also helped boost overall health.

As I look back on my fondest memories savoring raita, I’m reminded less of its nutritional benefits and more of its taste. There’s a Hindi word called “dhamaka,” which translates to explosion — or intense and bold flavors when used in a culinary context. Raita embodies exactly that. There’s a slight tang from the yogurt bathed in warm spices. There’s also an underlying hint of sweetness, which cools down even the hottest of meals. And there are the slices of cucumbers and onions, which add an extra layer of refreshment. It’s addictive and soothing all in one. Raita has forever converted me into a savory yogurt lover. In fact, I prefer my yogurt extra salty over sweet.

Within the U.S., the savory yogurt craze has been slow to take off. In the 1940s, many Americans weren’t too fond of the slightly sour taste that’s characteristic of plain yogurt, wrote Allison Aubrey for NPR. So, in an attempt to make yogurt more palatable, companies upped the sweet factor. Growing up in the early aughts, I ate my fair share of Yoplait and YoCrunch — yogurts that mimicked popular dessert items, yogurts with fruit puree at the bottom of each cup and yogurts accompanied by chocolate candies. Today, yogurt still primarily exists as a sweet treat, typically enjoyed for breakfast alongside fruit and granola, on chia seed puddings, or as a healthy alternative to ice cream.

Since 2015, strides have been made to introduce more savory yogurts, taking inspiration from recipes around the world. There’s tzatziki, a salted yogurt and cucumber dip that’s rooted in Greek cuisine. There’s mast-o-khiar, a Persian side dish and dip that’s a mix of yogurt, cucumber, dried mint and walnuts. There’s also Turkish Çılbır, which is more of a main dish than a dip since it calls for poached eggs served over a layer of garlicky yogurt and topped with warm spicy butter.

If you’re new to salty, spice-infused yogurts yet curious to try them, I have the perfect recipe for you. It’s my mother’s go-to recipe for raita, which I recommend enjoying with biryani (homemade or takeout), curries, tandoori chicken, or kabobs. You can even eat it as a spread on naan. Or, you can eat it on its own as a snack, especially now that the weather is slowly getting warmer.

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The key to making really good raita is using plain, full-fat, unsweetened yogurt, which allows for a creamy yet not-too-thick base. I also recommend toasting your spices to really bring out their flavors.

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